Meet Josh Niland, the Australian chef who started a fish revolution

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Introducing Josh Niland, the innovative Australian chef who kickstarted a revolution in the realm of seafood. This feature was created by National Geographic Traveller (UK).

Rarely does fear lead to favorable decisions, but for Josh Niland, the fear of his nascent business failing prompted him to deeply explore how to maximize his resources. When he established Saint Peter restaurant in Sydney’s Paddington district, he had one significant asset: fish. Over the course of seven years, he has become renowned as the master of comprehensive fish utilization, redefining the way fish is prepared and served.

Embracing the notion of using the entire fish not only aligns with sustainability principles but also proves logical from a business perspective for Niland. Reflecting on the beginnings of Saint Peter, he acknowledges that this approach emerged primarily from apprehension, a response to the expense of procuring seafood. The initial invoice for fish, totaling A$4,500 (£2,420), with A$2,500 (£1,344) deemed as waste, triggered an epiphany for him.

Niland seized this opportunity to fully utilize each fish, establishing a distinctive position within Sydney’s culinary landscape. Implementing the low-waste concept posed challenges with his small three-person kitchen team, but the objective was clear: extract the maximum value from each fish. Traditionally, Western dining habits focused on consuming fillets due to a perceived aversion to the textural diversity of other parts. Niland aimed to challenge this mindset.

Despite Australia’s abundant coastal waters, a staggering two-thirds of the fish consumed is discarded as waste. Remarkably, around 70% of the nation’s fish is imported, incurring significant costs. Niland aims to counteract this trend by encouraging people to purchase high-quality fish and explore its diverse culinary potential.

Niland’s innovation goes beyond utilizing the entire fish; he treats it akin to meat. By doing so, he expands his repertoire by creating approximately 15 new recipes for each part, elevating the status of secondary cuts to match that of primary selections. His creative techniques extend to crafting dishes like marlin ‘nduja and flathead mortadella, embracing parts often overlooked, such as liver, eyes, and scales.

Growing up in Maitland, a few hours north of Sydney, Niland’s interest in food blossomed while recovering from childhood cancer. His culinary journey began with stints at local cafes and an apprenticeship at a nearby restaurant. His career trajectory included notable positions at Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck development kitchen and Stephen Hodges’ now-closed Sydney establishment, Fish Face. It was at the latter that a seemingly unfavorable incident—neglecting to wrap fish properly—yielded unexpectedly positive results, reshaping his approach to fish preparation.

Launching Saint Peter in 2016 with his wife Julie, Niland pioneered his own method of dry-aging fish, preserving its texture and flavor. This unconventional approach required a keen understanding of food safety and aging processes. Contrary to common practice, which prioritizes immediate consumption, Niland’s method focuses on optimal aging periods for different types of fish. This technique guarantees that fish maintains its excellence throughout its shelf life, enhancing its overall deliciousness beyond mere freshness.

Niland’s culinary influence extends through multiple establishments, including the flagship Saint Peter, two Fish Butchery shops, a la carte restaurant Peterman, and takeaway spot Charcoal Fish—all situated in Sydney. His efforts to utilize every part of the fish result in a symbiotic culinary ecosystem across his businesses.

While his fame initially rooted in the local scene with Saint Peter, Niland gained international attention upon publishing his debut book, “The Whole Fish Cookbook,” in 2019. The book offers detailed insights into fish butchery, storage, and curing, alongside inventive recipes featuring lesser-known Australian ingredients. Its success earned two James Beard Awards, subsequently inspiring a second publication.

Niland’s aspirations transcend building a seafood empire; instead, he strives to change perceptions about fish consumption. He wishes to encourage people to minimize waste and explore diverse preparation techniques. Niland’s journey exemplifies culinary innovation with the power to transform attitudes and practices surrounding seafood consumption.

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