It’s been called ‘the greatest museum of prehistoric art’—but few tourists know it exists

Referred to as ‘the most extensive collection of prehistoric artwork,’ but recognized by only a few tourists, Tassili N’Ajjer National Park remains a hidden gem in Africa. Despite being the largest national park on the continent, it remains relatively unknown due to its remote location.

Situated in the southeastern part of Algeria, the park encompasses the remnants of an expansive Precambrian sandstone plateau, spanning across 2,780 square miles in the heart of the Sahara Desert, sharing borders with Libya and Niger.

This region is a geological marvel, characterized by peculiar rock formations intermingled with orange dunes. Millennia of erosion have sculpted the sandstone into towering spires, carved openings through towering cliffs, and shaped formations into abstract and animal-like figures. Remarkably, the park is believed to contain over 300 natural arches.

However, the allure of Tassili lies not only in the visual grandeur of its rocks, but also in the stories etched upon them by past generations.

Abdellah Elies, a Tuarag guide, recounts the tale behind the “Crying Cows,” a renowned ancient engraving on a rock surface positioned between Djanet and Tadrart Rouge. This engraving symbolizes the sorrow of the region’s herders as the “African Humid Period” concluded, transforming the green Sahara into arid desert.

One of the most captivating areas within Tassili is Tadrart Rouge, accessible through 4×4 tours from the oasis town of Djanet, a flight of about two and a half hours from Algeria’s capital, Algiers. As tour guides, often members of the nomadic Tuareg tribe, identify spots to pause, visitors frequently encounter ancient etchings and paintings adorning the rock surfaces.

Back in the 1950s, French archaeologist Henri Lhote, who documented a significant portion of Tassili’s 15,000 rock art pieces, praised the region as “the world’s most extensive prehistoric art museum.”

These outdoor galleries offer a vivid ethnological record of the various peoples drawn to the area across time. Intriguingly, many of the prominent petroglyphs depict large mammals more commonly associated with sub-Saharan Africa, such as elephants, giraffes, rhinos, and hippos.

This outdoor artistry provides insight into the Sahara’s changing climate. As the region’s weather patterns evolved, so did its human societies. Certain overhangs exhibit intricate, lifelike depictions of piebald cattle, reflecting the transition from hunting and gathering to mobile pastoralism. Many of the surviving images from this “bovidian” era are created using carmine paint, a mixture of crushed stone and cow’s blood.

The weeping cows, carved into a lone rock outcrop near the road connecting Djanet and the Libyan border, serve as a harbinger of the Sahara’s current arid state. As a lush era gave way to a dry one, the sophisticated glyphs transformed into simpler camel sketches – the hasty graffiti of a nomadic lifestyle.

In recent years, regional instability, particularly conflicts in Libya and Niger, has restricted access to much of the national park. The vastness of the wilderness places it beyond the reach of Algerian military patrols.

Though Tadrart Rouge feels like a separate world, many of Tassili’s rock art pieces, along with the breathtaking landscapes that backdrop them, remain lost in the passage of time.

For those interested in visiting, Tassili N’Ajjer tours typically span five to seven days, with Tuareg guides picking up visitors from Djanet Airport and heading directly to Tadrart Rouge. The teams include a guide, driver, and cook, along with camping equipment, food, and water. A seven-day tour with Fancy Yellow, including domestic flights, costs around $770 per person.

Visitors with more time can combine a Tassili trip with a visit to Hoggar National Park, another spectacular natural wonder in the Algerian Sahara. This mountain range of volcanic plugs is accessible from the town of Tamanrasset, which is a 45-minute flight west of Djanet.

The author of the article is Henry Wismayer, a London-based writer, and the photographer is Matjaz Krivic, a documentary photographer from Slovenia.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about prehistoric art

More about prehistoric art

• Tassili N’Ajjer National Park Official Website
• National Geographic Article: Sahara’s Hidden Art Gallery
• Fancy Yellow Tours – Tassili N’Ajjer Tours
• Hoggar National Park – UNESCO
• Tuareg Culture and History
• Prehistoric Rock Art Research