This captivating journey takes us to the heart of the Camargue, a truly distinctive region nestled along the southern coast of France. This article, brought to you by National Geographic Traveller (UK), explores the vibrant and enigmatic Camargue through its annual Pèlerinage Gitan pilgrimage, its wild landscapes, and its artistic connections.
The Pèlerinage Gitan: A Riotous Romani Pilgrimage
In the sun-soaked square of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, the air is filled with energy as the Pèlerinage Gitan, a unique Romani pilgrimage, comes to life. Romani communities from across Europe gather here each May to celebrate their heritage. The square reverberates with lively call and response chants, flamenco music, and the claps of handclaps. It’s a riotous and joyous spectacle.
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, at the heart of the Camargue, is a land of swampy marshes and untamed beauty, inhabited by flamingos and cowboys on white Camargue horses. The Pèlerinage Gitan is the perfect introduction to this region, which has a distinct, almost mystical quality. The Romani people, despite their diverse origins, unite in their Catholic faith, and the pilgrimage revolves around a mass in the church followed by a procession carrying a statue of Saint Sarah, their patron saint, down to the sea.
The festival is a fusion of cultures and cuisines, with aromas of Hungarian goulash, Andalucian Romani stew, shakshuka, paella, and more wafting through the air. The music is just as diverse, ranging from flamenco and Balkan brass to Eastern European klezmer and Parisian gypsy jazz. It’s a sensory overload of tastes and sounds, all coming together to celebrate a shared heritage and faith.
The Legend of Saint Sarah: From Egypt to Camargue
Saint Sarah, the patron saint of the Romani people, holds a special place in their hearts. Tradition tells the story of four women who, in the first century, floated across the Mediterranean to the Camargue in a boat with no sails or oars. Among them was Saint Sarah, depicted as dark-skinned and believed to be from Egypt. This connection led to the mistaken belief that the Romani people originated in Egypt, giving rise to the term ‘gypsy.’
In reality, genetic and linguistic studies suggest the Romani people originated in Northern India. The name for Saint Sarah, Sara e Kali, even seems to support this theory, with ‘kali’ meaning ‘she who is black’ in Sanskrit. Nevertheless, Saint Sarah remains a central figure in the Romani culture, and her statue, carried in the procession to the sea, is a powerful symbol of faith and identity.
A Horseback Adventure: Exploring the Camargue Marshlands
As you venture further into the Camargue, you’ll discover its otherworldly landscapes, where the land meets the sea in a mesmerizing dance of marshes, beaches, and waterways. This unique environment is home to the famous Camargue horses, one of the oldest horse breeds in the world.
At the Crin Blanc riding school, you can experience the magic of the Camargue up close. Riding on these majestic white horses, you’ll explore the boggy marshes, sandy beaches, and the enchanting ecosystem that thrives in this liminal space between land and sea. Vibrant plant life, including sea purslane, glasswort, and sea lavender, paints the landscape with hues of lilac, green, and purple.
And, of course, you can’t miss the iconic Camargue flamingos, known for their elegance as they stand on one leg, foraging for algae in the calm waters. The Camargue’s natural beauty and wildlife draw visitors year-round, making it a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts.
Discovering Gardian Culture: Life on a Camargue Farm
To delve even deeper into the Camargue’s culture, take a journey to the Mas Saint Germain, a Camargue horse and bull farm. Run by the Vadon family for over 300 years, this agrotourism destination offers a glimpse into the traditional Camargue way of life.
The farm’s Camargue horses live a semi-feral existence, roaming the marshes and feeding on reeds and grasses. These hardy horses play a crucial role in herding Camargue cattle, and the bond between horse and herder is something truly special.
The Camargue bulls, another iconic symbol of the region, are central to the Course Camarguaise, a local form of bullfighting that is bloodless for the bulls. This tradition has its roots in young farm workers playing with the bulls, putting flowers and fabric on their horns, and trying to capture them. Today, the sport is a celebrated and passionate part of Camargue culture.
Arles: Vincent van Gogh’s Artistic Legacy
A short drive from the Camargue is the city of Arles, often considered the gateway to the region. It was here that Vincent van Gogh spent a year and created some of his most iconic works of art. Arles boasts Roman ruins, Romanesque churches, and a rich cultural heritage.
Van Gogh’s time in Arles was marked by prolific creativity, producing an astonishing 100 paintings in just 15 months. You can follow in his footsteps with a walking art tour, exploring the places that inspired his masterpieces.
The Fondation Vincent van Gogh Arles and the Luma Arles contemporary arts centre pay homage to his legacy, showcasing his works and their impact on the art world.
Arles itself is a city steeped in history, with Roman theatres and amphitheatres that offer a glimpse into the past. It’s a place where ancient and modern blend seamlessly, much like the Camargue itself.
A World Apart: The Enigmatic Camargue
The Camargue is a land of contrasts and wonders, where the Pèlerinage Gitan unites cultures, where horses roam free in untamed landscapes, where bulls are celebrated in an unconventional form of bullfighting, and where an artistic genius found inspiration.
As you explore this region, you’ll be captivated by its uniqueness, its vibrant traditions, and its breathtaking natural beauty. The Camargue truly is a world apart, a place that will leave a lasting impression on anyone fortunate enough to experience its magic.
Getting There and When to Go
Marseille serves as the main gateway to the Camargue, with daily flights from London, Edinburgh, and Manchester. From Marseille, you can take a train to Arles and then a bus to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. For exploring the region, having a rental car is recommended.
The best time to visit the Camargue is in the spring when the weather is pleasant, with average highs of 23°C in May. Summer can be hot and humid, with August temperatures averaging 27°C. Keep in mind that mosquitoes can be prevalent during the summer months. Most tourism activity in the region shuts down in winter.
Where to Stay
In Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, consider Hôtel du Pont Blanc with doubles starting
Table of Contents
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about Pilgrimage
What is the Pèlerinage Gitan mentioned in the article?
The Pèlerinage Gitan is a riotous Romani pilgrimage that takes place in the French coastal town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer each May. It draws Romani communities from across Europe and is a unique cultural celebration.
Who were the first to see the risen Christ, according to tradition in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer?
According to tradition, the first to see the risen Christ were Mary Magdalene, Mary Salome, Mary Jacobe, and their maid, Sarah. They are believed to have floated to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer in a boat with no sails or oars during the first century.
What is the significance of Saint Sarah in the Romani culture?
Saint Sarah, also known as Sara e Kali, is considered the patron saint of the Romani people. She is depicted as dark-skinned and was mistakenly believed by locals to be from Egypt when the Romani first arrived in France in the 15th century, leading to the term “gypsy.” Genetic and linguistic studies suggest the Romani originated in Northern India.
What role do Camargue horses play in the Camargue region?
Camargue horses are one of the oldest breeds in the world and are an iconic part of the Camargue region. They are known for their white coats and are used in herding Camargue cattle. They also have cultural significance in local traditions and events.
What is the Course Camarguaise, and how does it differ from Spanish bullfighting?
The Course Camarguaise is a local version of bullfighting in the Camargue region. Unlike Spanish bullfighting, it is bloodless for the bulls. In this version, a bullfighter, called a razeteur, attempts to retrieve pieces of fabric draped around a bull’s horns. It has a more playful and less violent nature compared to Spanish bullfighting.
What is the significance of Arles in the Camargue region?
Arles is often referred to as the “capital of the Camargue” and serves as the gateway to the region. It is known for its Roman ruins, Romanesque churches, and its association with the famous artist Vincent van Gogh, who lived in Arles for a year and developed his unique painting style there.
What are some of the attractions and activities mentioned in the article for visitors to the Camargue region?
Visitors to the Camargue region can enjoy the Pèlerinage Gitan festival, explore the unique landscapes, ride Camargue horses, observe flamingos and other wildlife, experience the local culture, and explore the historical and artistic heritage of places like Arles.
When is the best time to visit the Camargue region?
The article suggests that spring, with average highs of 23°C in May, is a lovely time to visit the Camargue. Summer can be humid but not extremely hot, with August average highs of 27°C. Winter is less popular for tourism, and many activities may be closed during that season.
How can travelers access the Camargue region?
Travelers can access the Camargue region by flying to Marseille and taking trains to Arles. From Arles, there are daily buses to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. To explore the region fully, having a car is recommended, and rental car options are available at Marseille airport.
Are there organized tours available for exploring the Camargue region?
Yes, there are organized tours available for exploring the Camargue region. Titan Travel offers a seven-day group tour that includes activities, accommodation on a canal barge, and excursions to places like Arles, Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, and birdwatching in the Camargue.
5 comments
Saint Sarah’s story is fascinating, didn’t know about the Romani connection. This article has great info on Camargue.
Wow! such an amazin article! I luv how it talks bout da Pèlerinage Gitan fest, and da Romani culture. Camargue horses sound cool too.
This place is so historic, I lived there for a bit, van Gogh’s art is epic! Anyone visiting should check out Arles.
Thx for the travel tips, gonna plan a trip to the Camargue soon! Flamingos and festivals, can’t wait!
Camargue horses are so pretty, wanna ride one someday. The marshes sound wild, like a movie scene!