Does Castle Douglas, Scotland’s self-appointed food town, live up to the hype?

Can Castle Douglas, the self-proclaimed culinary hub of Scotland, live up to its reputation? This article was created by National Geographic Traveller (UK).

Situated in the fertile southwest region of Dumfries and Galloway, a corner of Scotland that historically hasn’t seen as many tourists as the bustling cities of Edinburgh and the Highlands, this area offers a rich tapestry of history, culture, and most notably, delectable food and beverages. In 2002, Castle Douglas, a bustling market town at the heart of this county, proudly bestowed upon itself the title of ‘Scotland’s Food Town’. This recognition is well-deserved, given its hosting of over 50 independent food enterprises—an impressive feat for a town with a population of merely 4,000.

The vibrant King Street stands as the epicenter of Castle Douglas, boasting three butcher shops, four bakeries, as well as numerous other establishments including shops, cafes, and restaurants. Among them, Designs Gallery & Cafe offers the most splendid scones. Guests can enter through the gift shop, exploring an array of books, ceramics, and homeware along the way. On pleasant days, patrons can enjoy their treats at outdoor tables within the leafy courtyard.

A short distance away, The Toffee Shop is another charming destination when the weather is fair. Patrons queue up for fresh dairy ice cream from the local Glen Urr Ice Cream producer. The lemon curd flavor, crafted from a confidential family recipe, proves to be delightful, as are the various berry sorbets. Before leaving, take a moment to marvel at the vast assortment of old-fashioned sweets—over 300 varieties to be exact.

For those in need of picnic supplies, The Earth’s Crust Bakery is the go-to spot. Here, everything is baked from scratch using organic flour and locally-sourced eggs, dairy, and vegetables. While the daily selection varies, one can typically anticipate generously topped focaccias and mouthwatering quiches. Co-owner Tom van Rooyen explains, “People had to get used to us… It’s more creative that way and cuts down on waste, too.” The bakery’s Friday night pizzas are exceptionally popular and well worth reserving in advance.

At the apex of fine dining in town is Mr Pook’s Kitchen, overseen by chef Ed Pook. A mural of the Dumfries and Galloway coastline adorns the open kitchen, reminding diners of the region’s culinary diversity. Ed expresses his vision: “We want to put Dumfries and Galloway on a plate.” The menu ingeniously blends classic French gastronomy with contemporary fermentation techniques and foraged ingredients. Expect dishes like venison, pheasant, Kirkcudbright scallops, and the local lamb specialty.

For a more relaxed dining experience, Nikos Greek Restaurant beckons with its array of mezze. Enjoy butter beans with peppers, hearty beef stifado, and creamy dips with crisp pitta for dipping. Most ingredients are proudly local, sourced from businesses on King Street, while olives and olive oil come from the owner Nikos’s brother’s vineyard in Crete.

If the indulgent feasting has left you parched, make your way to Sulwath Brewers. Established as a family-run real ale brewery in 1995 when microbreweries in Scotland were a rarity, this establishment has flourished, now one of around 100 in the country. Named after the Solway Firth, ‘Sulwath’ being the ancient name for the estuary, the brewery now includes a taproom. Their brews, like the crisp IPA called Criffel, often take names from local hills. Revel in a pint within the sunlit courtyard or partake in one of the brewery’s three summer beer festivals, raising a glass to this thriving culinary destination.

For travelers curious about the journey, Castle Douglas is accessible via a 30 to 60-minute bus ride (depending on the route) from Dumfries. The latter is well-connected by rail to both Glasgow and Carlisle. For accommodations, Ernespie House Hotel, located on the town’s outskirts, offers double rooms starting at £95, inclusive of a hearty Scottish breakfast.

This article was featured in Issue 20 (summer 2023) of Food magazine by National Geographic Traveller (UK).

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More about Culinary Heritage

• National Geographic Traveller (UK)
• Dumfries and Galloway
• Castle Douglas
• Designs Gallery & Cafe
• Glen Urr Ice Cream
• The Toffee Shop
• The Earth’s Crust Bakery
• Mr Pook’s Kitchen
• Nikos Greek Restaurant
• Sulwath Brewers
• Ernespie House Hotel